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Italian Food Offers a Tasty Experience for Tongue, Wallet

By Lauren Woods Posted: 04/28/2008
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Courtesy of Stella Neighborhood Trattoria
Stella Neighborhood Trattoria in Grant Park offers traditional Italian in a friendly setting. It has built up its presence through community works and the addition of a bruch menu.
A hot spot in the making, Stella Neighborhood Trattoria exudes relaxed sophistication with affordable, authentic Italian cuisine. Stella opened in February, but just added brunch to their weekend menu on April 19. The Grant Park restaurant keeps its layout as simple as its cuisine, with natural lighting and dark wood finish throughout.

Trattoria means small Italian restaurant, which, incidentally, is a perfect description for what Stella is all about. Owned by the same company that runs Doc Chey’s and Osteria 832, it has its own take on the tradition of fresh food in a small atmosphere. I found that the simple, authentic food and the relaxed vibe were unique qualities and impossible to overlook.

Though wine bottles are used as decorations and the Italian rustic feel is undeniable, the Italian in Stella is best expressed by its food. The new brunch menu, though somewhat limited, provides enough options that it took a recommendation from our server for me to decide. He initially suggested the Stella Benedict — an Italian twist on eggs Benedict and his personal favorite — but as soon as he mentioned French toast on a list of popular brunch selections, I knew what I was ordering. And I was not disappointed: the vivid red, juicy strawberry slices and powdered sugar sprinkled on top of the four thick pieces of toast, all topped with mascarpone cheese and a generous portion of authentic maple syrup, was a simple, savory selection to say the least. The mascarpone cheese added a fresh layer of flavor to the richness of the French toast, balancing out its sweetness. This was French toast at its best.

The server also recommended the Rustica Omelette, which is the first dish that comes to mind in attempting to express Stella’s dedication to simple food with an Italian twist. The combination of Italian sausage, onions, mushrooms, pomodoro sauce and parmigiano cheese results in a flavorful but not overwhelming dish.

Without compromising portion size or quality, Stella’s prices are more than fair: nothing exceeds $10 on the brunch menu. Every dish, from the omelette and French toast to the eggs with toast, came out on large plates, nicely put together but by no means elaborate. The unassuming nature of the presentation was a bit of a misnomer, for each dish at my table contained complex flavors. Needless to say, there was quite a bit of sharing at my table.

The neighborhood piece of Stella is backed by its dedication to community and charity. To celebrate its grand opening, the restaraunt raised $4,000 to donate to nearby Neighborhood Charter School. More recently, Stella organized “Dine Out for Tornado Relief,” an Atlanta-wide event at several restaurants that took place on the one-month anniversary of the Atlanta tornado and raised $11,000. On May 18, Stella will host a neighborhood open house party, benefiting Cabbagetown Tornado Victims.

These events are part of the restaurant’s mission of “fostering of good karma.” Stella takes this on as not just an abstract idea, but as something to be experienced in the restaurant as well as when you walk in the door.

The employees are accommodating and seem to genuinely want the customer to have the Stella experience. The attention to detail in food and service reflects their commitment to quality, and it was the highlight of my visit. Stella goes beyond great food, valuing a comfortable atmosphere and friendly staff as well.

This local gem is a 15-minute drive away, and certainly worth the trek. Customers may initially flock for the trendy new brunch menu, but with a dedication to fostering community, Stella secures its place as a positive influence in Grant Park.

— Contact Lauren Woods.

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